Before driving into the sublimeTuscan region we stayed in Testaccio, a true Roman neighbourhood - so close to the centre of Rome yet resonating with the day to day heartbeat of authentic suburban life.
Nella casa Dell'Angelo a Testaccio became our Roman home during our too brief stay and it is a true gem - not just for accommodation - as they offer so much more - an unforgettable welcome and experience in their beautiful hometown of Rome. Comfortable beds, comfy sofa and sparkling clean bathroom and kitchen - well stocked with so many extra comforts, as well as essentials, to make your stay relaxed and cosy. Tiziana, Donatella and Paul are so hospitable and go to great lengths to think of everything to make your stay enjoyable and comfortable so you can make the most of all that Rome and this local neighbourhood have to offer. Attention to detail was well thought out and we really appreciated the information book giving much needed advice and suggestions - they covered local transport, sights to see, local restaurants as well as information about local shops and medical locations - but most importantly, where to find the gelato ! I am convinced walking there and back burnt all the calories - so many delicious flavours and so so much tastier than anything back home!
 |
| Nella casa Dell'Angelo a Testaccio |
 |
| Nella casa Dell'Angelo a Testaccio |
The apartment is centrally located, very close to lots of excellent public transport options and is one flight up from the main street overlooking the Tiber River. The road was not noisy for us, plus there is double-glazing and metal shutters: in fact we loved opening the windows and watching the locals on their way to work, school and cafes. Just stroll around the corner and you are in another world - a local Church, children playing, families shopping and neighbours exchanging gossip on park benches in the leafy Piazza. Priceless - a genuine glimpse into living like a local. It is very easy to access public transport and visit those incomparable sights that you never tire of - The Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, Vatican, Sistine Chapel, Spanish Steps, Vittoriano and the Piazza Venezia, the Centrale Montemartini, Capitoline Museum, the Roman Forum, Basiclica Di San Paola, Galleria Borghese - the list is endless. We also caught a train to Ostica Antica, the harbour city of ancient Rome and major archaeological site - very impressive and not crowded when we visited. We even caught a bus in the opposite direction to where we intended - and it turned into a fun adventure exploring more hidden local areas!
There is so much to explore in the local precinct which is famous for the Amphora ruins. Close by is the incongruous Pyramide as well as the cemetery resting places of Keats, Shelley and the Emelyn Story Angel of Grief statue plus unexpected Roman ruins and the Jewish Quarter. Leisurely strolls will take you to the Aventine Hill with must-see Churches filled with historic statues and artwork, as well as the view of St Peter's through the Key-hole and the nearby Giardino degli Aranci (Orange Garden) with breathtaking views of the city. But take a moment and people-watch. The locals are meeting up for family picnics, friends and lovers are strolling under the green canopy and the Nonnas are tickling grand-baby chins. You might even spy a wedding group posing for photos. To me, that is what travel is all about - the people - and appreciating the city as they experience it. Yes, the buildings and artworks are magnificent. But even more magnificent is how history sits alongside modernity and how the local people weave both into their lives. I love taking a moment to touch a wall or a tree and ponder how many thousands of people stood there before me over the centuries. Coming from an Australian town where governments practically encourage the removal of anything old, I treasure seeing where people insist antiquity stands it's ground and keep it alive, vibrant and relevant to their lives.
 |
| Church Testaccio Rome |
 |
| Testaccio Rome |
 |
| Deli near Testaccio Rome |
 |
| Eataly. Rome |
 |
| Pecorino Trattoria near Testaccio Rome |
And now the food. Ooh ooh ooh. Delizia! Sono pieno come un uovo! When you visit Rome be sure to pop into the local delis, bakeries and markets. Fresh. Delicious. Simple. Whether you choose to shop at the local Mercato Testaccio covered markets, the tempting delis such as Salumeria Volpetti dotted nearby or eat out at any of the cafes or Trattorias - you will never be hungry - the produce is fresh and vibrant and the cafe menus are seasonal and provide an authentic taste of Roman cuisine. Order a coffee macchiato and try avoiding the tempting pastries for sale - resistance is useless. We did our best to share one small gelato each time which meant we could sample more and loved the creamy treats at Gelato Giolitti and Gelateria La Romana as well as (too) many more! There were so many delectable meals enjoyed. Bucatino served hearty delicious food. It was mushroom and truffle season whilst we were there so we did our best to savour as much as we could. A truly memorable dinner was at Pecorino Trattoria - all the food was amazing - but the mushrooms - words cannot describe how delicious they were. Stand-out. Simple, uncomplicated delicately seasoned and cooked. The best. We were also treated to an evening feast at Molo 9/12 with fresh succulent seafood, good wine and great company. Very indulged! And of course the pasta - a taste of simplicity and perfection. We sampled the Cacio e Pepe, Pasta alla Gricia, Carbonara, Suppli, Cornetto and so many more dishes - all sublime and delicious - even the ubiquitous paninis were mouthwatering. Some nights we popped into one of the well stocked delis and selected olives and other antipasti morsels to enjoy relaxing with a glass of wine. Prices really surprised us - pleasantly - food, really good wholesome food was not nearly as expensive as we expected, especially compared to Australian prices. One place that you must visit is Eataly - floor after floor of culinary choices. - you can purchase such a variety of ingredients, utensils, books or select something to eat there. A fascinating place - but I loved the local markets better!
It was so difficult to farewell Rome but I am so grateful for the special memories of this beautiful part of the world that were made even more memorable by the kindness and friendliness of the Italian people and of course the hospitality and welcome from Tiziana, Donatella and Paul at Nella casa dell'Angelo in Testaccio.
Molte Grazie
Mille Grazie
Grazie Mille
Grazie de Tutto
Grazie di cuore 💓
More information and booking advice:
Nella casa dell'Angelo apartment in Testaccio Italy AirBnB link
 |
| View of Rome |
 |
| Eataly. Rome |
 |
| Gelateria La Romana Italy |
 |
| Eataly. Rome |
 |
| Eataly. Rome |
 |
| Molo 9/12 Rome |
No comments:
Post a Comment